Since its inception in 2019, the Alpine Eagle has undergone a series of metamorphoses both internally and externally. We’ve seen Chopard release the Alpine Eagle in yellow gold, with full gem-setting, with a high-frequency movement, and with a chronograph – as well as with an ultra-thin profile + salmon dial combo.
Last year’s aforementioned XPS model was a runaway success. Many of my colleagues have since continued to declare its ultra-slim merits amongst themselves in #watchtalk slack channels. The XPS paved the way, along with the high-frequency Cadence 8HF, for a new kind of elevated segment within the Alpine Eagle range. high quality replica watches
This year the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT was added to the lineup. A little watch semantics 101 recap / warning for you (and myself): you must absolutely not call this a skeleton dial (as I first did) because Chopard has very clearly not marketed this as skeletonized (because it is not) nor openworked (which it very clearly is), but as “a new ultra-thin timepiece providing full visibility across the entire intricate mechanical workings of L.U.C Caliber 96.17-S.” I suppose it sort of makes sense when you take a closer look at the very industrial looking XP TT. In full transparency (sorry, I couldn’t help myself), I had to think a full 30 seconds about the difference between skeleton and openwork dials. Technically speaking it’s an openwork dial, but it’s a different kind of openwork than we are used to seeing from higher priced luxury competitors like Audemars Piguet or Vacheron Constantin.
Let’s get simple logistics out of the way before I embark on my attempt at giving you a non-lofty explanation of why Chopard has chosen not to broadcast this release as “openworked.” XP stands for eXtra-Plat (ultra-thin). The watch’s movement, the L.U.C Caliber 96.17-S, measures 3.30mm thin, and the case measures a very slim 8mm. All in all, I’d say that’s pretty skinny. TT stands for Technical Titanium; so, naturally, this watch is considerably lighter than your main collection Alpine Eagle. The XP TT is 41mm in diameter, but the proportions are a little different from the norm here with a thinner bezel, which I gather is meant to make more room for this “all-goods-on-display” dial. The mainplate and bridges are openworked to follow the curves of the case opening, creating concentric spaces around the movement’s center. You could say the lack of finishing on the mainplate evokes a sort of industrial look, or you could be cynical and say it looks a little bare. There is still plenty of aesthetic nuance to be had here. The sandblasted mainplate and bridges are black-rhodium-plated and create a contrast that nicely highlights the gilded gear trains and the “LUC” engraved, off-center micro-rotor in 22-carat gold. If I am calling the baseplate finishing lacking, I must also note the quality of the beveling in the keyless works as well as the finely polished screws throughout – true L.U.C-level attention to detail. high quality replica watches
When the L.U.C Caliber 96.17-S was first used in 2012, it was Chopard’s first in-house skeletonized/openworked movement. Yes, I know I said not to call the XP TT skeletonized, but back in 2012 they called their openworked novelty the L.U.C XP Skeletec, so go figure. The last use of the caliber (before this year) was for an L.U,C XP Skeletec LE in 2021. Now for the plot twist: most, if not all, of the watches containing said caliber featured Geneva stripes on the baseplate. Those previous Skeletec watches were a little more traditionally decorated, as one would expect from the L.U.C line. My first guess is that the XT PP’s baseplate is somehow supposed to work congruously with the sandblasted finish of the Alpine Eagle case. At the very least, we must note the blasted baseplate is clearly an intentional decision from Chopard. Personally, I feel that it would have been nice to see an updated movement with more openwork features. It’s a funny little paradox to have a L.U.C movement with, let’s say, restrained finishing. But then perhaps this is an attempt at putting out a more reasonably priced ($26,500 to be exact) openwork product. And I support democracy in the watch space!
The watch is made of grade-5 titanium. But I’ll be honest here, I’m not a lightweight material obsessive. In fact, I prefer gold watches above all, so that sort of disqualifies me from having any helpful take on how this titanium watch actually feels on the wrist. I hate to break it to you, but all titanium watches kind of feel the same to me in that they evoke a generic “wow I can’t believe how light this watch is” reaction, and then I’m quickly on to the next. But this time I was noticeably more curious. I tried on the watch because even though a 41mm titanium “openworked” sports watch sounds exactly like everything I would hate on paper, I loved the look of it. I loved its look even before I had seen it in person. Which is why I am here writing about it. And okay, my curiosity was also slightly peaked by the fact I have a little obsession with the vintage Saint Moritz skeleton. Don’t ask me to pick between the two because you know the answer. But today we are thinking about a modern watch buyer and what they need from their modern Alpine Eagle. And apparently, they need lightweight-ness!
For some more lightweight talk, the signature Alpine Eagle bracelet feels super comfortable in titanium. And it now comes with a triple folding clasp in Chopard’s proprietary Lucent Steel with new safety push-pieces. According to Danny’s introducing post, the safety pushers on the clasp are for ease of removal from the wrist and will soon be featured permanently across the Alpine Eagle line. Like the case, the titanium bracelet is a touch darker than its steel cousins, which I quite like. It’s a little less shiny and a little more rugged. high quality replica watches
The Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT makes perfect sense as a next logical step for the brand and its deeper foray into “popular” watches. And by popular watches, I mean integrated bracelet sport watches that the masses continue to voraciously consume as the collector community moves on to lauding dressier and more unusual alternatives. However, this is not expansion for expansion’s sake. It’s certainly not a “let’s do an openwork luxury sports watch because AP seems to sell those.” Firstly the XP TT has a Saint Moritz skeleton predecessor. And secondly, the XP TT edges the brand’s sports model toward what Chopard has always stood for in enthusiast circles – true dress watch elegance. Chopard will tell you this idea is “the ultimate expression of classicism,” and they may be right. You only need to look at ultra-thin models from the ’80s and ’90s for proof that slim bezels and cases have been Chopard’s thing for decades.
Across the catalog, Chopard is clearly pushing towards premium finishing whenever possible – even going further than L.U.C level with the new Qualité Fleurier release. While core-collection L.U.C dress watches might not be to the taste (or pockets) of everyone, the continued use of these premium movements in the Alpine Eagle offers Chopard’s focus of high finishing in something far more wearable. This is not an aesthetic revolt, it’s a push for versatility.