Grand Seiko SBGC242 and SBGC244, two spring-driven chronographs made of ceramic material

Grand Seiko copy has launched two exciting new models that extend the Spring Drive chronograph series.

At the beginning of 2021, Shanda announced the Seiko SBGC240, a new Spring Drive chronograph to celebrate the 140 anniversary of the brand founded by Kintaro. Limited to 500 timepieces, this reference introduces several significant design changes to the Grand Seiko chronograph series, including a new bezel shape made of zirconia ceramics, and a new set of scaled down Chronograph button. Today, Grand Seiko launched the SBGC242 and SBGC244, these two watches continue this design evolution.

SBGC242 and SBGC244 share a stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.8 mm, a length of 51.6 mm, and a thickness of 16.1 mm. The bottom of the bezel is in the shape of a dodecahedron. SBGC242 is made of 18k yellow gold and SBGC244 is made of 18k rose gold. The top of the bezel is a solid zirconia ceramic, the former is blue, the latter is black, and decorated with a clear and easy-to-read tachymeter scale, this detail makes the watch more sporty. To match the color of the bezel, the dial of SBGC242 is blue, and the dial of SBC244 is black sun pattern. The dial is decorated with gold and rose gold respectively.

Given the complex shape of the bezel and the general difficulty of perfectly polishing the case, completing the golden part of the bezel proved to be challenging. The top surface has fine lines, while the side of the case is polished by Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu method to a distortion-free reflection.

The chronograph buttons on the SBGC201, SBGC203 and SBGC205 models have been scaled down. There is no longer a locking mechanism, and it is worth emphasizing that this redesign does not lose functionality. The crown and buttons of SBGC242 are 18k yellow gold, while SBGC244 is 18k rose gold. The case is still 100 meters.

As with past chronograph models, the functions here are arranged in an incredibly logical way. The 30-minute counter is located at about 2 o’clock, the 12-hour counter is located directly below 4 o’clock, and the movable second hand is located at 9 o’clock. Arranging two counters vertically in this way makes it easy to track the elapsed time. In addition, the Greenwich Mean Time hands allow tracking of a second time zone. The power reserve indicator is located at around seven o’clock, away from key timing components to ensure legibility.

On the back, the back of the display box shows the amazing 9R86 movement, which is a Spring Drive chronograph with Greenwich Mean Time. It uses a vertical clutch and column wheel design to achieve high precision and excellent tactility when the timing function is activated. The movement’s accuracy rating is +-15 seconds per month (extended to the elapsed time), making it the most accurate spring-driven chronograph in the world. 9R86 is composed of more than 400 parts, and each movement is assembled by hand by skilled craftsmen in Shinshu watchmaking workshop.

SBGC242 and SBGC244 will be listed in October 2021. SBGC244 is a limited edition Grand Seiko model.

Grand Seiko Sports SBGC240

A new spring driving chronograph, the golden highlights joined the collection of large sperms. The new spring driving chimei code table celebrates the 140th anniversary of the company. SBGC240

Kintaro Hattori founded his company in 1881 until 1934 73-year-old death until he died. His company is his company, “always in the rest of the rest”, and no creation before 1960, there is nothing better than this better design, leading advantage manufacturing and exquisite, express The power of his vision. In order to commemorate the 140th anniversary of the founding of the Company, Daxing is proud to announce the new spring driving chronograph, perfectly reflecting the vision of Kintaro Hattori.

Zirconia ceramics, 18K gold and exquisite new appearance

This powerful watch Allies Spring Drive Time Code Table Calliac 9R86 has a new design and new material combination. The result is a rare improvement watch. The baffle immediately uses its twelve ingot shape, and its zirconia ceramic outer layer and 18K gold substrate captures the eyes. Due to the combination of this material, it is even surprising and durable.

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This situation also uses comparison to provide an impression of visual arrest. Its top surface has been given to the hairline, while the side shows the perfect perfect, only Zaratsu polishing can be provided. The dial is a sensitive rich. Golden hands and hidden markers are detached from pure black dials because the mark is fully aligned with each vertex of the 12 edge baffles, which can accurately read the day and after passing. The 18K gold button running the chronographic table is highlighted to ensure safe operation, but they are also simplified to look like the shirts of the stadium under the shirt cuffs.

The grandfather in 18k Jindian is close to the watch, while the additional crocodile is shown in the presence of golden sutures.

Time code table for ultimate accuracy
Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Chronograph may be the most accurate time code table in the world. It measures the time of up to 12 hours, the accuracy rate is +/- a day, whether it is the chronological code table is being used, and this accuracy remains in this high level even if the power reserve is low due to the unique adjustment system of the spring driver. . It is also important that it is not the closest second, but it is entirely due to the instantaneous stop of the presbyter, but not only in the most recent “check” in the presbyction of the sliding action. The accuracy of its operation is ensured by the column wheel and the vertical clutch system, which is used by the company first by the company in 1969.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Seiko 140th Anniversary SBGC240 Men Replica watch

Calibre 9R86 has more than 400 parts, all parts are assembled by SHINSHU. SHINSHU. Women in the middle of Japan.

Grand Seiko Sports Collection
Spring Drive Chronograph GMT: SBGC240
Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition

Caliber 9R86
Driving system: Automatic with manual winding mechanism
Power reserve: 72 hours
Accuracy: ±1 second per day (±15 seconds per month)
Chronograph up to 12 hours
Number of jewels: 50

Specifications
Stainless steel case and bracelet
Zirconia ceramic and 18k yellow gold bezel
18k yellow gold push buttons
Dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Screw see-through case back, Screw-down crown
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 43.8mm, Thickness: 16.1mm
Three-fold clasp with push button release
An additional crocodile strap is included.

Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko cheap combines time, beauty and nature to create a special kind of work. The all-new Grand Seiko creation, meticulously crafted, provides a new perspective on the essence of time. The dial is inspired by the slender and beautiful white birch trees that flourish in northern Japan and grow luxuriantly near the Shishi Seiko studio where this watch was made. This new timepiece has intricate textures, exquisite details and exquisite subtleties. It is a window that opens to the unique natural environment of Japan and exquisite craftsmanship.

This watch captures the atmosphere of all the mechanical watches made by Seiko in the birch forest near the studio. Both in summer and winter, the tall and slender trunks and the bark of birch trees present a twinkling scene, which was once beautiful and mysterious. To observe the dial carefully is to experience exactly the same feeling as the visitors of these forests, and to bring them closer to the true and eternal nature of time than ever before.

Series 9 design. Stay true to the ideals and traditions of Grand Seiko.

The overall appearance of the new work is called the 9 series design, and it will become an important part of the future Seiko heritage series signature. Strong hands and grooved protruding marks ensure perfect readability. Its Zaratsu polishing, twist-free mirror coating and exquisite hairline coating alternately present the case with a serene and harmonious glow. The wide lugs of the case and the low center of gravity ensure that the watch fits easily and firmly on the wrist. The design of the 9 series is indeed in line with the Grand Seiko style defined by the famous 44GS as early as 1967, but its heritage combined with a strong modern sense points to a new era.

9SA5 is the latest and greatest Hi-Beat 36000 movement.

This high-pulsation watch is powered by the revolutionary 9SA5 movement, which can provide 80 hours of power reserve due to its improved energy efficiency. The 9SA5 movement debuted in 2020 and combines three major developments: a new double-pulse escapement, a Seiko large spring suspension balance wheel and a horizontal gear train, which together set a new standard for high-frequency timepieces. While providing advanced features, the movement is slimmer than ever, giving the watch a slim profile.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection

Mechanical Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours Caliber 9SA5

Driving system: Automatic
Vibrations: 36,000 vibrations per hour (10 beats per second)
Accuracy (mean daily rate):+5 to -3 seconds per day
Power reserve: 80 hours
Number of jewels: 47

Specifications
Stainless steel case and bracelet
Box shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
See-through screw case back
Water resistance: 10 bar
Magnetic resistance: 4,800 A/m
Diameter: 40.0mm, Thickness: 11.7mm
Three-fold clasp with push button release

Grand Seiko Spring Drive

Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Snowflake” SBGA211: On the “Brightman” high-strength titanium bracelet. Case, Brightman titanium, 41mm x 12.5mm, with Zaratsu polishing. Movement, Grand Seiko Spring Drive movement 9R65, 72-hour power reserve. The maximum rated deviation per day is ±1 second. Wearing snowflakes is also an exercise to achieve blameless functions. The case and bracelet are Seiko’s “high-strength” titanium metal, which has the lightness, comfort and hypoallergenicity of titanium, but has better scratch resistance. Although the bevel and bezel of the case are polished brightly, you don’t have to worry about scratches on this watch, so even if you wear Seiko’s large diameter case (the case is 41mm x 12.5mm), it will not wear out and is comfortable to wear. – After adjustment, it fits my 7-inch wrist slightly, and it is almost inconspicuous unless I happen to need to check the time or date.

In terms of competition, it has been a particularly interesting year at this price point, and many manufacturers have done their best to provide as attractive watches as possible at a price of $6,000 or less-so many that we do not Don’t feel difficult. All of these will be summarized in a quick survey in July last year. The lineup includes Tudor’s first chronograph and Breitling’s new movement. The always reliable Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and of course the snowflake itself. However, in the true sense, Spring Drive Snowflake has no competition-at least no competition in terms of competing with other watches that use similar technical methods. Christopher Walken should say: “In my career, I am very lucky. In Hollywood, if you want the type of Christopher Walken, you almost have to hire Christopher Walken. ).” Similarly, if you want Spring Drive, you almost have to get Spring Drive. There are almost no spring drivers.

I think at the current price (SBGA211), this is one of the most satisfactory watches at the moment. Yes, as you requested, it has excellent objectivity in pursuing the actual interests of the owner. Seiko officially set the accuracy as one second per day, but interestingly, the owners of Seiko Spring Drive generally believe that the accuracy is much better-usually an order of magnitude better. It is easy to wear day after day. And reading time will not be a temporary matter-even in the case of very low light, due to the inclined surface and highly reflective surface of the hand and index finger, you would think that some kind of luminescent material is essential. The time is short. However, at the same time, you can also appreciate it technically on behalf of the watch. It takes some time to understand Spring Drive, but it is worth mentioning how it differs from traditional quartz and standard mechanical watches, if you find the technical achievements and innovations of independent timekeeping interesting (that is, since 1969 Since Seiko introduced the quartz replica watch, Spring Drive is one of the most interesting developments.

However, the place where snowflakes really win people’s hearts is its design and aesthetics, which have won people’s hearts for the past ten years. The excellent fit and finish you can expect from Grand Seiko is a big part of it, but like any truly successful design object, the whole is far more than the sum of its parts, and it is a design object with a unique design. As the heart of the Japanese, Spring Drive Snowflake should be the favorite of Seiko Seiko fans. Grand Seiko is known as a high-quality symbol in the watch enthusiast world, and in the fake Grand Seiko family, Snowflake stands out as a symbol that successfully incorporates many of the qualities that make Grand Seiko so attractive-if you will.

Hard core, interpretation of Grand Seiko’s “strongest” movement

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In 1960, Seiko replica launched the first high-end line, Grand Seiko (ie Seiko GS, Grand Seiko). By 2020, it is the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko. To commemorate the 60th anniversary, Guanlan Lion (Seiko GS) recently launched a variety of 60th anniversary commemorative styles. Including historical replicas, jewelry watches, formal watches, diving watches and many other limited models. And launched a new 9SA5 self-winding movement, used in the 60th anniversary limited edition of Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko).

Grand Seiko’s new 9SA5 movement has achieved a breakthrough in Japanese high-end watchmaking in terms of technology and decoration, reaching the new height of Japanese high-end watchmaking in automatic movements (referring to automatic three-hand movement , Excluding complication movement). And 9SA5 movement also uses a new type of escapement, the official name is “double impact escapement”. Although many media have reported on this movement, there is no further interpretation, especially the new escapement of 9SA5, so today I want to talk about this movement that represents the highest level of Japanese fine watchmaking. core. First of all, starting from the escapement, I will try my best to make technical issues easy to understand.

Crown blue lion, double impact escapement, where is the power?

It can be said that 99% of the world’s mechanical watches, from Tissot Longines to Rolex Patek Philippe, use the same escapement, called “lever escapement” (also called Swiss lever escapement). Whether it is Tissot or Patek Philippe, the overall structure of their “lever escapement” is the same.

The remaining 1% of mechanical wholesale watches copy do not use “lever escapement”, which includes “Omega coaxial escapement”, “Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement” and “Crown Lion Double Impact Escapement”. Omega, Audemars Piguet, Crown Blue Lion, these three escapements, although each has its own name and some differences in appearance, but they have the same principle and historical origin. So some people say that the “double impact escapement” of the Crown Blue Lion is very similar to the “coaxial escapement” of Omega, which is correct. (PS. The 99% and 1% I mentioned here are just a metaphor. In addition to these escapements, there are also some very very rare special escapements, such as FPJ’s double-axle escapement, Athens’ two-way escapement, etc.) .

The biggest appearance feature of the “lever escapement” is that it has a long “fork” pallet. The “Double Impact Escapement” of the Crown Blue Lion is an pallet fork but it is “horizontal” and close to the escape wheel (the same applies to Omega and Audemars Piguet). Different structures bring different operation modes to these two escapements.

Lever escapement: The fork of the balance wheel drives the pallet fork, and the pallet fork drives the escape wheel. Balance wheel fork → pallet fork → escape wheel.

Double-impact escapement: the balance wheel’s fork shoe directly drives the escape wheel, and the pallet fork only plays a locking role (since the entire escapement is close to the escape wheel, the balance wheel’s fork shoe can directly drive the escape wheel) . Balance wheel fork shoe → escape wheel.

So we can see that the power of the double impact escapement (including Omega and Audemars Piguet) is directly transmitted between the balance wheel and the escape wheel, skipping the pallet fork, the power transmission path is shorter, and the power loss is smaller. The crown blue lion “double impact escapement” and Omega coaxial escapement, Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement, have the following advantages:

  1. The power transmission efficiency is higher. The power transmission efficiency of the “double impact escapement” is 52% (including similar escapements of Omega and Audemars Piguet), while the efficiency of the “lever escapement” is 35% ( This data is derived from Audemars Piguet’s research data on escapement).
  2. Double impact escapement (including Omega coaxial escapement and Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement). The pallet fork only plays a locking role. The teeth of the pallet fork and escape wheel can be very “pointed” (lever The escapement will be more “square”), which reduces the contact area between the pallet fork, the escape wheel tooth and the tooth, reduces the friction stroke, and the friction is smaller. Data shows that the lever escapement has a friction stroke of 0.4 mm. The double impact escapement (including Omega, Audemars Piguet), the friction stroke can be reduced to 0.05 mm. This is why Omega said that the coaxial escapement can reduce dependence on lubricating oil (referring to the escapement part).

Excellent performance, but why is it rarely used?

Grand Seiko (replica Grand Seiko) “double pulse escapement”, Omega “coaxial escapement”, Audemars Piguet “exclusive escapement”, this type of escapement, they have a common “ancestor”, Chronometer escapement/Robin The escapement (the Robin escapement, born in 1791, is an improvement on the escapement of the observatory). This type of escapement performance does have advantages, but the problem is that the structure is more complex (Crest Blue Lion, Omega, Audemars Piguet, although they have the same history and technical origin, although the basic principles of each company are the same, but the design is different) .

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The Robin escapement in history is because under the historical conditions at that time, because of the poor anti-vibration ability and the difficulty of self-starting (in my impression, it needs an external force to drive it, and it is difficult to drive it with gears), so it stopped using it. . “Lever escapement” because of its simple structure and strong reliability, it eventually dominated the world until today. Most of the mechanical watches on the market, it can be said that 99% of the mechanical fake men watches use the “lever escapement”, although it is not the highest performance, but it is the most reliable along the way.

Through modern watchmaking technology, technical problems are solved. At present, both the Grand Seiko “Double Pulse Escapement” and Audemars Piguet’s “Exclusive Escapement” are used on a small scale on specific watches (Audemars Piguet is only used on a few watches such as Jules Audemars Chronometer, Royal Oak and the like Omega’s “coaxial escapement” has been widely used on all Omega watches. But old players know that Omega’s “coaxial escapement” has experienced 2500, 2500C, 2500D, 8500, 8900/8800, from 1999 to today, after more than 20 years, after several generations of evolution, it has today’s reliable and stable performance. Outstanding Omega 8 and 9 series movements. Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko) used the new “double pulse escapement” on the new 9SA5 movement this time. I think one is the discovery, exploration and innovation of watch technology, and the other is the confidence and display of its own strength.

Crown Blue Lion 9SA5 movement other main technology.

In addition to the most heavyweight “double-pulse escapement”, the Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement also uses a variety of technologies.

The Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement uses a new non-caliber weight to fine-tune the balance. At the balance wheel fine-tuning weight, the edge of the balance wheel is recessed inward, and the weight is wrapped inside the balance wheel, which helps to reduce the air resistance of the balance wheel. This design of fine-tuning the balance wheel with non-caliber weights is also used in Swiss watches, such as Breguet.

The Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement uses an end winding hairspring. Winding the hairspring on the end (also called Breguet hairspring, because it was invented by Breguet), is to lift the end of the hairspring upwards, and then fix it on the outer pile of the hairspring. The end of the hairspring that is lifted upwards, in layman’s terms, increases the three-dimensional sense of the hairspring. Through the shape of the winding on the end, the center of gravity of the hairspring is kept at the center position, which helps prevent the center of gravity of the hairspring from shifting and facilitates the travel time (general flat hairspring, The center of gravity is easy to shift). In Swiss watches, it is also often used, such as Rolex.

Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko fake) 9SA5 movement, swing frequency 36000 times / hour, power 80 hours. At the same time of high frequency, long power is maintained. The main reason is that the 9SA5 movement uses a new tandem barrel, which also reduces the thickness of the movement. The 9SA5 movement measures 31 mm and is 5.18 mm thick. The 9S85 movement that Crown Blue Lion has always used is 28.4 mm and 5.99 mm thick.

In terms of movement and decoration, the 9SA5 movement also changed the style of the previous Grand Seiko movement, adopting more independent movement splints and using a cross-type balance splint. Use more jewel bearings and roasted blue screws (47 jewel bearings). And use a huge hollow automatic rotor. The design and decoration style of the 9SA5 movement has been completely consistent with the Swiss watch movement.

“Spring” SBGA413: The next development

The beauty of replica Grand Seiko continues to come from its unwavering dedication to absorb its own design language. Tanaka defines superb design grammar as an art form deeply rooted in Japanese influence and culture. The Seiko Hotel draws unique inspiration from the natural elements of its hometown. This resulted in “snowflakes” and “peacocks”, but so far, no design is bolder than the “Four Seasons” and “Spring” SBGA413.

Grand Seiko SBGA413 has largely achieved a breakthrough in 62GS technology and a bold and different way of design. It is powered by Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive (9R65), this movement apologizes completely while fusing tradition and technology, which other brands dare not do. But SBGA413 goes further: although the case uses a 62GS profile, the larger case (40mm), titanium and profile can hug the wrist.

The hemispherical crystal and frameless structure imitates the structure of the original 62GS, making the appearance of the dial more complete. For this, thank God. The textured dial has a subtle pink hue inspired by the short moment when a cherry blossom (cherry blossom) falls into the water, thus forming a flower raft (hanaikada). The dial is an appropriate tribute, the pink flickers back and forth in different lights, capturing the spirit of the short season-here, the next moment disappears. It is a cliché to say that this is an appropriate tribute to one of Japan’s most iconic symbols.

Its craftsmanship is pure and simple, aiming to create something that is self-referential but not exaggerated, and pays homage to Japanese traditions, while also pushing the story of Seiko and Japan forward. We often think of clock and watch craftsmanship as those six-figure prices, but Seiko has proven that the application of modern technology can bring new opportunities for storytelling. If 62GS is Disneyland, then SBGA413 is Pixar: Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko) completely uses modern technology to produce novel and timeless stories.

The perfect Grand Seiko two watch series

62GS and SBGA413 are excellent watches in themselves. But when they appeared in the same series, they became more, fully representing the Grand Seiko that continued in the 1960s and 2020.

62GS shows that Seiko has defined a unique design language at its best time in the middle of this century, which runs through the brand’s genes. The movement is Grand Seiko’s first self-winding movement. It has been used repeatedly by the brand over the past ten years, and its accuracy may be the same as any mechanical watch at the time.

At the same time, SBGA413 is completely modern, but still very different from Grand Seiko. Of course, it is powered by Grand Seiko’s signature technology Spring Drive. Until the last hub of the gear train, the movement is exactly the same as the traditional mechanical movement. But it cleverly uses quartz technology, which is the way Seiko can only power the electrical regulator by using a clockwork. The result is a consistent source of energy that allows the seconds hand to pass smoothly through the dial, rather than using the smaller fractional seconds hand as in traditional mechanical movements.

There have been many reports about the fascinating effect of the spring drive and the smooth second hand, but nothing is more appropriate than floating gracefully on the pink fine-tuned dial of the SBGA413. For the dial, it itself is to evoke the moment the cherry blossoms fall into the water, so the second hand has the same elegant and smooth characteristics as those “flower rafts” is very suitable.

Only Grand Seiko dared to create a watch replica Wholesale that can cover the seasons of the entire country and execute the watch perfectly (by the way, they did it four times, because each American exclusive “Four Seasons” edition Have brought some changes) watches; springs just happen to be the best).

Even better, both watches are extremely valuable. Indeed, one of Seiko’s main selling points is its ability to provide value that a watch cannot provide. This is surprising-the fit and finish provided by Grand Seiko is at a relatively moderate price point-but its level of craftsmanship is also very low, and it is impossible to pay too much attention to the Grand Seiko price tag. From the story to the dial and everything in between, there is nothing like SBGA413, no matter if the price is a competitive price or 10 times the spring MSRP.

At the same time, Antique Grand Seiko will continue to provide a huge value proposition. Almost every piece represents the history of timepieces, technical sorcery or just some aspect of design. The price of a 62GS will not cost you thousands of dollars, although you may need to meet a Japanese dealer to get a clean example. Because of its clear lines and multi-faceted surface, polishing the 62GS case may make it lose its structural beauty.

62GS and SBGA413 are first-class watches in themselves, but even better when they are together. If you care about Seiko’s history, technical achievements and bold design, there is no better way to explain than through these two Online fake watches. Maybe this place is not that bad after all.

In 2019, Grand Seiko released many different models in all its series. I have compiled a summary of the annual Seiko Daxia Seiko men’s wear.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211

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For some reason, Spring Drive Snowflake is a major fan of Seiko.

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA011 is well-known by fans of Seiko, referred to as “Snowflake” for short, it may be the most iconic model of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive, first launched in 2010 (unbelievable). In the seven years since it came out, it has become a fan favorite, and it has also been favored by critics. Its unique dial has been praised, as has Seiko’s general assembly and finish. Interestingly, Grand Seiko has never provided this dial with any movement other than Spring Drive. In fact, for traditional automatic movements or traditional self-winding movements, the characteristics of the Spring Drive movement are important to the watch as a whole. The overall impact is crucial. Quartz movement, this may be a very different wrist experience, maybe a little subtle but correct.

The Snowflake story actually has two parts: one is the overall aesthetics, and the other is the Spring Drive movement. Snowflake is a very calming watch-the subtle light on the dial is similar to the newly fallen, slightly drifting snow field, and the silent, smooth sliding of the blue steel second hand, combined together, can be made The feeling of becoming time flows uninterruptedly, but not hurriedly or slowly. It seems to look at time almost from an eternal perspective, because people should be immersed in meditation. In contrast, a mechanical watch presents time as a series of oscillations-the frequency of the balance wheel can be seen in the forward movement of the second hand’s yaw. As the escape wheel is unlocked, the balance jumps forward once every time it swings.

Quartz replica watches work differently. Quartz vibrates 32,768 times per second; this is done because quartz is a piezoelectric material, which means that when you pass through quartz, quartz deforms mechanically. Piezoelectric materials also generate electrical current when they are mechanically deformed, which means you can easily count the number of times the crystal vibrates per second (you only need to count the number of electrical pulses it generates). The reason for choosing the frequency is simple: 32,768 is 2 to the 15th power. By dividing the pulse repetition from the crystal by 2, you can easily get the 1-second interval. The dividing integrated circuit then sends a signal to the stepper motor to advance the second hand by one increment. This jumping second is a feature of the long-outdated double escapement, a variation of this escapement that was widely used in 19th century Chinese watches. George Daniels said in the watch industry: “This system was once highly valued by the Chinese, who despised the second hand crawling on the watch.”

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This is just to point out that the movement of the second hand will naturally become an important part of our perception of the passage of time and the characteristics of the watch. There are so many cases that dead femtoseconds (the so-called deathless femtosecond complication) are often despised by mechanical watch enthusiasts, who find it too much like a quartz watch (even if the name Rolex is not enough to make this This kind of watch) complications are commercially successful, witnessing the obscurity of Rolex Tru-Beat. High-frequency quartz watches, like high-beat mechanical watches, can give people a sense of smooth and continuous movement, but Spring Drive is the only watch technology that has a true continuous forward movement function.

The evolution of spring transmission
As with any basic advancement in timing technology, Spring Drive’s pregnancy is long and sometimes painful. The original idea was put forward by Yoshikazu Akahane, an engineer from Seiko Epson in Shioji City, Nagano Prefecture (now known as Shinshu Watch Studio), to reflect his views on Grand Seiko Spring Drive and Grand Seiko quartz watches. Focus; it is also the location of Micro Artist Studio, such as Eichi II and Credor’s high-end Spring Drive timepieces, their watchmaking complexity is very high. Akabane began to try this in the late 1970s (the date usually given is around 1977) An idea, and the first patent for the concept was granted in 1982. However, it was not until 20 years later that Seiko showed the movement publicly in 2002. In 1997, the Baselworld (Baselworld). 1998, the first batch Spring Drive watch is released.

There are several reasons why it took so long. The spring-driven movement contains a quartz oscillator, but the similarities with traditional quartz watches are over here. The quartz watch has a battery. In addition, Spring Drive does not or does not have a quartz watch-as HODINKEE large code editor Joe Thompson pointed out, many of the first commercially successful quartz watches are digital, not analog-and in Spring Drive, the pointer is a must Indispensable (it is impossible to build the digital display of the Spring Drive watch). In addition, Spring Drive watches are driven by a clockwork; the quartz watch industry is unparalleled. The closest relatives may be Seiko’s Kinetic and Swiss Autoquartz movements, but they are standard quartz watches with rotor-driven micro-generators that can charge rechargeable batteries. In fact, the Spring Drive watch is technically no different from any other mechanical watch, directing to the position of the escape wheel in the standard movement.

The escape wheel, lever and balance wheel will appear in traditional watches, we can find what Seiko said as the Tri-Synchro regulator. “Tri” refers to the three types of energy present in the regulating system: the magnetic field energy generated by the sliding wheel; mechanical; from clockwork and electricity, from quartz crystal. The last gear in motion turns the so-called skid wheel, which has a permanent magnet on its hub. It rotates between two electromagnets located at one end of a pair of winding coils according to a pair of Faraday’s laws. The whole object is used as a generator (the pulley acts as a rotor). The law assumes that the conductor moving in a magnetic field will generate current.

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The generated current flows to the integrated circuit and the quartz crystal. As the current flows through the crystal and the crystal, the crystal vibrates, and the IC counts the oscillations. However, the IC does not divide by 2 until it counts to an interval of one second, and then sends the signal to the stepper motor, but instead transfers energy back to the electromagnet surrounding the sliding wheel. The electrical energy becomes magnetic here, which exerts braking energy on the sliding wheels. The feedback electric energy is precisely controlled, so that the sliding wheel rotates exactly eight times per second. Therefore, the sliding wheel ensures that the balance spring unwinds in a controlled manner in the same way as the escape wheel, pallet fork and balance spring (and balance spring) of a traditional watch control the release speed of the balance spring.

Therefore, in essence, the spring-driven movement is mechanical, but has an electromagnetic escapement adjusted by a quartz oscillator. One of the reasons why Spring Drive development took a long time is because it generates very little energy. In order to be used in commercial watches, it is necessary to develop a special low energy consumption integrated circuit, and the coil must be wound with very thin copper wire to ensure the maximum number of turns of the winding. The coil itself. To this end, a special hexagonal cross-section wire has been developed, so that the coil can be wound with no gaps (or even microscopic gaps) between the turns, which means that the total volume in a given volume The length is greater. In fact, you can see with the naked eye the difference between the coil used in the Seiko Kinetic watch (the battery is charged by the mechanical rotor) and the Spring Drive coil; in our recent salt oji tour, we were able to photograph two coils side by side.

Very little electricity is produced. One way of visualization is to imagine everyone on the planet wearing a Spring Drive watch. If this is the case, the electricity generated is only enough to light a 100-watt light bulb. In order to have an acceptable power reserve, the entire system must work very efficiently, which is why it is necessary to develop new coil systems and efficient integrated circuits. In order to reduce friction loss to the absolute lowest level, mechanical wheels must also be manufactured and assembled with high precision (this is easy to miss for Spring Drive, but to make them work, high-precision mechanical best swiss watches and advanced Technology platform).

Grand Seiko Spring Drive review

Can Grand Seiko Spring Drive become the most accurate mechanical watch movement ever? Discover the secret behind the operator who made the Grand Seiko movement so smooth with Spring Drive so smooth.

Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic 39.5mm Review

The special edition Grand Seiko Elegance requires special comments and high-resolution photos to truly capture the beauty provided by this luxury timepiece. Read the full review of the Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic 39.5mm Model#: sbgh263 below.

Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic 39.5mm Review
case

Looking closely at the case, you will find its superior craftsmanship and attention to detail, from construction to the famous Zaratsu polishing.

This special finishing method is done manually, and tinplate is used in the process to provide a mirror finish without the distortions normally associated with highly polished finishes. This method is only done by experienced craftsmen and craftsmen who need to rotate the box juxtaposed on the board at a very precise angle to make it completely correct.

dial

The silver dial has a soft creamy tone and uses gold applique numbers. The date hole is located at 3 o’clock and is framed by a gold frame. The delicate minute recording track adds a subtle distance to the entire periphery of the dial, with equal spacing between the numbers and the edge of the silver dial.

The Grand Seiko logo is printed in black and is painted under the polished golden GS abbreviation at 12 o’clock. The “AUTOMATIC” located directly above the 6 o’clock position is displayed in capital letters using sans-serif black fonts, and has the words “HIGH-BEAT 36000” to indicate the VPH rate of the movement’s oscillation, resulting in ten oscillations per second .

The matching golden yellow-brown hour and minute hands are faceted, and polished surfaces are used on the surfaces and bevels of the hour and minute hands. With the high-tap movement, the second hand moves smoothly around the dial.

movement

Grand Seiko Elegance Automatic 39.5mm self-winding internal automatic Grand Seiko movement 9s85 is powered by high vibration at 36,000 VpH or 5Hz. This 37 jewel self-winding movement is flawless and can be seen through the watch’s transparent sapphire caseback.

The GS 9s85 movement can be adjusted to 6 different positions and temperatures, and has undergone an accuracy test of -3 / + 5 seconds per day, even more accurate than the level required by the COSC timer. The 9s85 is equipped with a Spron 610 hairspring. Its electromagnetic frequency resistance is three times that of the previous generation Spron hairspring, and its impact resistance is twice that of the previous generation Spron hairspring.

Spron 530 alloy gives the mainspring a high torque, and its power is 6% higher than its predecessor, which means it can work an additional 5 hours, so it has a longer power reserve than most 10-beat watches. .

The case is mounted on a smooth dark brown alligator leather strap with matching brown stitching, and the back of the case back is softer light brown calf leather. The strap uses a button-type folding clasp made of stainless steel, which can be closed by a pin buckle.

Compared with SBGK005, they are almost rare. What I didn’t expect was that the dial layout might cause strange hand arrangement. With the second hand and backup power in place, you can get an amazing configuration, all of which has space and looks perfect, as well as weird distortions, hands are crowded and confused. The latter does not happen often, but I bowed my head a few times and said to myself: “Wait, what’s going on?” replica swiss watches

The only real complaint is the common situation of Grand Seiko watches, whose case has a highly polished effect: they are scratchy and dusty. At least it can be said that I have a little A-type, I find myself constantly picking up microfiber cloth to organize things. To be honest, although I don’t mind, the light of the Seiko watch case seems to be worth our weight.

Overall, I think my large-scale experiment was successful. Although SBGK005 is positioned as a variety of wearable watches, it can still be an excellent everyday wearer on the correct strap and can reinvent itself according to its environment. Its uniqueness is enough to attract people’s attention, but it will not require you to wear it so loudly. Great design, pure and simple.

competition

SBGK005 is one of the more expensive watches in the Elegance series and one of the higher-priced non-precious metal watches in the Grand Seiko core product line. Personally, I think you will still get a lot of attention at this price point, especially if your first priority is a unique design, excellent dial and high-quality internal movement.

After spending a week with Grand Seiko SBGK005, it is safe to say that this watch belongs to the “difficult to return” category. It took me more than a week to put on this watch, which gave me a positive first impression, the rich details of the dial became more and more beautiful, and the comfort of the case became more and more time-consuming Even more impressive. Grand Seiko uses his own method to make high-end watches, which cannot be copied by any other watchmaker, and as a result, their binding power and qualities usually stand out like anything else. SBGK005 is completely a watch, which performs well in almost all daily situations.

Making a difference for your own sake is not always the best move. However, if you do something different for thoughtful reasons and want to smile on your face, then you will get some very interesting results. The Grand Seiko SBGK005 watches replica uses a familiar formula and is executed with freshness and a unique perspective, making it a very attractive watch. Only spend more time to convince you, it can become better.

Announcement of all 2019 Grand Seiko models

In 2019, Grand Seiko released many different models in all its series. I compiled a summary of the Grand Seiko men’s watch published by Seiko of the Year.

All “Seiko 2019 Releases” have separate articles.

The newest Grand Grand Seiko model is the largest and most publicly announced at the Baselworld in March. Seven men’s watches were announced at the show. I did not include any women models in this article because these women are not the models I will follow throughout the year.

Since Grand Seiko will not participate in the Basel International Watch and Jewelry Show next year, it is reported that they will hold another Grand Seiko Summit. Next year (2020) is the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, so many people expect the brand to release exciting news. It is interesting whether they will issue a similar number of announcements in a single event, or these announcements will be distributed more throughout the year.

Grand Seiko’s announcement at the Basel International Watch and Jewelry Show in 2019 included seven new menswear. The new Spring Drive models SBGY002, SBGY003, SBGZ001 and SBGZ003 based on 9R02 and 9R31 have been widely praised, and since this year is the 20th anniversary of the first Spring Drive models, it is a pleasure to see the return of manual winding movements.

The unique styles of SBGA403, SBGC230 and SBGC231 were announced at the exhibition, making bold design choices and expanding the Grand Seiko Sports series.

Grand Seiko Elegance Men copy watch SBGE227 for sale

In addition to the Basel International Watch and Jewelry Conference, many new Grand Seiko models were released throughout the year. This includes a series of limited-edition models and standard models, which are listed below in order of model number.

The SBGA399 is a Japanese limited edition model, sold only in Ginza, and has a dial around the “Renga” tile (Japanese brick) pattern. The model is exclusively sold in four department stores in Ginza, Tokyo, and a limited number of products are distributed among them, Wako (30), Ginza Mitsukoshi (29), Matsuya Ginza (29) and Nisshindo Main Store (29) .

SBGA405 “Godzilla” celebrates the 65th anniversary of the iconic monster. This model of Sport Collection follows the style of SBGA403 and is limited to release.

SBGA407 “Blue Snowflake” has been added to GS Elegance Collection and can be purchased as a standard model both in Japan and internationally.

Another limited edition of Ginza is SBGA409 “Willow”. The willow tree was first planted in Ginza in 1877 and was soon adopted as the official tree species in the area. Limited edition of 100 pieces, representing a tree with a green dial, gold logo and second hand.

SBGA411 is a limited edition model. This is a black dial model with golden hands and markings in a new SBGA403 style case.

The other two SBGA models released in 2019 are Seasons Collection’s unique SBGA413 and SBGA415 in the US market. SBGA413 is the “spring” model of the series, and SBGA415 is the “winter” model of the series.

This year’s last pair of SBGA series models are limited editions. The first is SBGA417, which is limited to K’ntetsu department store in Japan. This model is a blue dial variant of SBGA399. The second model is SBGA419, which is a limited edition of 40 units in the Isetan store in Shinjuku.

In order to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the birth of Nissan GT-R, Grand Seiko limited edition, issued SBGC229 Spring Drive chronograph.

Many models celebrate the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive, including the black dial SBGC233 limited edition.

Another Spring Drive chronograph released in 2019 is the black ceramic case SBGC235. Replica Watches Online

The limited edition of SBGD204 has only five units and is distributed through the Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi Department Store. This 9R01 8-day Spring Drive movement has a rose gold case set with a diamond dust dial.

SBGE248 is another version of GS Sports Collection. This model is a two-tone stainless steel and gold GMT model with a blue dial.

SBGC249 is an exclusive model of American distributor Timeless Luxury, with a stainless steel case, snowstorm dial and blued hands, limited edition of 250 pieces.

Unique to the Seiko boutique is the SBGE251 with a black dial, and rose gold is used for the first time in the rotating bezel of GS.

The design of SBGH269 is inspired by the Japanese autumn forest. Its red dial captures the color of the leaves and the lacquered wood floors of traditional Japanese architecture. The model is a limited edition of 900 units.

The SBGH271 “Summer” and SBGH273 “Fall” models complement the exclusive Seasons Collection in the United States.

The last model released in 2019 is the Takashimaya limited edition SBGH275. It has an 18K white gold case, a GS logo textured dial, and the 9S85 movement achieves a Seiko “special” rating of +4 / -2 seconds per day. The production quantity of this model is 22 units.

SBGJ235 with blue rock watch dial and rose gold GMT hands is a special edition model specially made by Grand Seiko Boutiques. “Special Edition” refers to the availability and distribution of products and should not be confused with the “Special” provisions on the SBGH275 model above. The movement of the SBGJ235 is 9S86, which is rated at the Grand Seiko standard of + 5 / -3 seconds per day.

Just before Baselworld Grand Seiko announced its new mechanical hand-wound 9S63 movement, it had been launched in four models. All models have a similar case and a unique sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The models are SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005 and SBGK006, all of which belong to the GS Elegance series.

Later in the year, two more models were added to the elegant series. These are the SBGK007 and SBGK009 that all use the 9S63 movement.

Wako’s unique model is SBGM237, with a limited edition of only 50 units. This model is driven by 9S66 and is equipped with a bracelet and a belt.

To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the advent of quartz watches, the SBGN009 limited edition is released and is equipped with a unique dial with a Seiko quartz logo.

The SBGR315 and SBGR317 models have silver and black dials, respectively, and are both new additions to the GS Heritage Collection.

SBGR319 limited edition, the watch has a silver dial with an unusual texture pattern.

SBGW255 is a unique model of the Asian Seiko dealer Thong Sai, which is responsible for many Asian countries. This model produced only 150 units and was driven by manual winding 9S64.

Seiko Elegance series once again added four 9F61 quartz watches. Platinum case SBGX329, gold SBGX330 and stainless steel SBGX331. SBGX333 is a 500-piece limited edition with mother-of-pearl dial and bracelet.

Note: The Keio Department Store has a limited edition of 10 SBGX331 (and Ms. STGF337) to celebrate its 55th anniversary. These units are equipped with blue and black leather straps and a special box that marks the store’s 55th anniversary. Therefore, you may find this aaa quality watches comes with a non-standard box, but this is the original of the watch.

Finally, there are 3 diver models based on 9F61, SBGX335, SBGX337 and the limited edition SBGX339.

This brings the total number of Grand Seiko models announced in 2019 to 47, of which only 7 were announced at Baselworld.

Launched the Seiko SPB171 Presage Arita Ceramic Dial Limited Edition

Grand Seiko Soko U.S. Special Edition Men copy watch SBGA427

Case: Stainless Steel,Round
Cuts: 39 mm
Movement: Automatic
Dial: White
Thickness: 12.50 mm
Glass: sapphire
Band Material: Crocodile
BUCKLE: Deployment Buckle
Functions: Hours,Minutes,Seconds,Date,Power Reserve
Year: 2020

A lesson to capture the beauty of abstraction.

Two familiar models received obvious Japanese updates.

There is almost no more valuable watch series than Seiko’s Presage series. You will get a beautifully designed watch with a sturdy and reliable movement, various additional compact touches, and a generally affordable price. As early as 2017, Seiko launched a series of stainless steel dials with white enamel burned dials in several different configurations. This week, we launched two new versions of watches with Arita ceramic dials, bringing some distinctive Japanese traditional craftsmanship to the watch party. In addition to the new dial and upgraded movement, as well as the longer power reserve for the date and date models, these watches also retain all the features of our favorite original models.

The proverb “Mirror Flower, Water Moon” reflects such a beautiful thing, for example, the reflection of the moon in still water is the reflection. It cannot be achieved. Its beauty can only exist as an existing building in the city. The Suigetsu word in Japanese specifically captures the image phenomenon of the moon on the water. Although it may only exist visually, Seiko recently added a model that can actually be implemented in the Presage series. It is designed according to the transient nature of the moon reflection in lakes and ponds throughout Japan.

Grand Seiko Soko U.S. Special Edition Men copy watch SBGA427

In the newest member of the Presage series, SPB171, the blue pointer clings to the white Arita porcelain dial. Only 2,000 Arita ceramic dial limited edition examples are provided. The watch uses Seiko’s 6R27 movement and is also used in the recently launched “Riki” watch in the Presage series.

The Presage series has always been full of watches, and these watches have achieved their weight grades above by combining processes that are usually reserved for higher prices. The porcelain dial points to SPB171 inheriting the idea of ​​last year’s most popular SPB093 and SPB095 heritage. The formula is almost the same: a beautifully designed watch with a strong and durable movement and a high price, which represents a high value.

A manufacturer that has been hone art since 1830, the craftsman Hashiyuki Hashiguchi oversees the production of Arita dials. The essence of producing ceramic dials is that the machinery can only be exerted to a certain extent, and the rest depends on human touch.

In short, the creation of porcelain plates is an art in itself. Arita Porcelain differs from traditional porcelain in that it is a physically hard material, so when it is used, the requirements for accuracy become particularly important. Hakuji porcelain is used for its pure white color, and forms a sharp contrast between the blue hands and the dial.

This special effect produced by bright white and soft blue is to evoke the beauty of the moon that people will experience during water and snow. Ceremony, this is a ritual where people appreciate the reflection of the moon on the still water. Often, it can be a challenge to fully grasp the background and ideology behind such a deep reference to Japanese traditional Seiko and Seiko models.

The desire to appreciate the moon’s reflection on the water seems to have nothing to do with clocks and watchmaking, but it only makes sense to step back. Appreciating the fleeting beauty is a human experience, and the way we appreciate the beauty of any watch (no matter where it comes from) is not much different. With or without a Japanese cultural background, Seiko SPB171 is indeed very beautiful.

Even with such an emphasis on the aesthetics of the watch, Seiko has not scorned the movement. 6R27 is a mid-range product that has formed an excellent record over the years. It beats at 28,800 vph and has a 45-hour power reserve. Although the movement is not the focus of the watch, it will definitely enhance the value proposition.

The Presage series is usually called “the best kept secret” within Seiko. Watches share a common philosophy with Grand Seiko, but Seiko is also good at pragmatism. Just like the faint beauty of the moon sinking on a glass lake on a quiet summer night, the model will quietly fade from the retailer’s showcase.

basis

Brand: Seiko
Model: Arita Porcelain Dial Limited Edition
Reference number: SPB171

Diameter: 40.6mm
Thickness: 14.1
Case material: stainless steel
Dial color: pure white
Index: Roman numerals
Water resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Strap, blue alligator leather

motion
Caliber: 6R27
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve.
Diameter: 27.40mm
Thickness: 5.32mm
Power reserve: 45 hours clockwork
: Automatic winding
Frequency: 28,800vph
Jewelry: 29

What is Arita porcelain?

Before delving into the shopping replica watch itself, it is necessary to understand the actual meaning of Arita Porcelain and why Seiko chose to use it. Arita is a small town on the island of Kyushu, Japan. By the end of the 16th century, porcelain clay was discovered nearby, making the area a hub for Japanese porcelain. According to Wikipedia, early merchandise was decorated with underglaze blue, but by the mid-17th century, Arita was at the forefront as Japan developed various brightly colored enamel “enamel” decorations.

Soon after, Arita’s porcelain products were known throughout Japan for their high-quality art. By the 19th century, it was exported to all parts of the world, dispatched by sea from the port of Imari Arita.

Today, Arita porcelain still has global appeal. Despite having a population of only 20,000, many porcelain manufacturers have grown in the town, producing various products and inheriting their long tradition of craftsmanship. Although porcelain is also manufactured elsewhere, the porcelain produced by Arita is unique to Japan, so Seiko chose to use this material for the dial of its new Presage watch.

We often see enamel dials, whether they are made in Switzerland, made in Japan or from other unexpected places, such as Scotland. However, the porcelain dial is more novel. Of course, this does not mean that they are not so ideal. If anything, this particular dial offers greater depth and gloss than many enamel dials we’ve seen (including previous Presage Enamel watches), but its appearance is very soft. I think the best way to describe the appearance is “milky”, only light blue. The quality of the finish is much higher than the price, but this is again the business card of the Presage collection.

Making attractive pottery is one thing. Making dials that require very high precision and tolerance is another matter. Seiko is known for its quality control standards, so naturally you will want the company to use only the best materials available on the dial. This is exactly what it does. The dial is made of new Arita porcelain developed three years ago. It is more than four times harder than standard porcelain and has the required strength and flexibility.

It is understandable that Seiko does not have the necessary expertise required to make dials. Instead, it chose to work with Hiroshi Hashiguchi, a master craftsman. Together with his colleagues, he formed an experienced manufacturer in Arita, which has been manufacturing porcelain since 1830. They jointly developed a multi-stage production process.

First, put the base material in a special mold that can provide dial depth. This is especially evident on SPB093, thanks to the recessed energy storage indicator at 9 o’clock and the calendar subdial at 6 o’clock. The dial is dried and then fired for the first time at 1300 degrees to make the material hard and white. Then Hashiguchi and his team applied a special glaze by hand, and then burned the dial again to bond the glaze to the dial. It was this step that produced a deep, rich appearance and a touch of blue, which is a direct tribute to the early examples of Arita porcelain. Next, use a laser to cut the holes in the date window and hands. Finally, the dial is ignited again to smooth the cut surface.

The result is clearly different from the enamel dial. Not necessarily better or worse, just different. I really like how the hue of blue becomes very noticeable at certain angles. It adds more elements to the dial and complements the blue steel hands. The time scale uses Roman numerals, and the “XII” at 12 o’clock is red. This is consistent with other similar models in the Presage lineup.

Functionally speaking, Seiko Presage Arita ceramic dial SPB093 is a variant of Presage Multi-Hand Automatic. This means a classic three-person aaa quality watches with a calendar subdial at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator between 8 and 10 o’clock. The 40.60 mm stainless steel case is equipped with an internal automatic movement-6R27 movement-the frequency is modern 4Hz, with a 45-hour power reserve. It can be seen through the sapphire bottom cover and shows a very good (if simple) finishing level.

Technical Specifications-Seiko PRESAGE ARITA Porcelain Plate SPB093
Case: 40.6mm x 14.1mm-stainless steel polished and brushed, multi-faced lugs-100m water resistant-4800 A / m magnetic field resistance-sapphire crystal, A / R coated dial and bottom cover
Dial: Master craftsman Hiroyuki Hashiguchi’s Arita ceramic dial-blue needle
Movement: Internal self-winding movement 6R27-4Hz frequency -45h power reserve-hours, minutes, seconds, date, power reserve indication
Strap: Alligator leather strap, tri-fold clasp, with button release
Reference: SPB093